If you make a mistake and complete the circuit on the new cells, you will most likely burn yourself, and you will defintely ruin your new cells.
It’s important that you do this part correctly. Use a marker to write on the top of the new cells, marking the way the nickel strips connect the batteries together. Its not a bad idea to tape or glue the new cells together, so when you’re soldering the nickel tabs on, you don’t move the configuration of the cells. Set the pack on the table, and next to the pack, set up your new battery cells in the same configuration as the old pack. Using something flat, like a putty knife, pry up where it is connected to the battery cell. Using your soldering iron, remove the thin black wire (the Thermistor) from the side of the top cell.Īt this point the only thing still connected to the top cell is the connector for the drill. Then you will see a wire goes from the black connector down to the pack and is connected to the positive terminal of one of the cells. To do this you will have to break off the piece of Nickel that connects the bottom of the cell to the rest of the pack. You will see that the battery cells are connected together using strips of nickel from Positive to Negative (wired in series) which is what creates the 18 volts of electricity.Ĭarefully remove the top cell. Inside you will find 15 – 1.2volt Sub-C size cells.Ĭarefully remove the insulation from the top and bottom of the battery cells. Remove the screws from the top of the pack and carefully remove the lid from the base of the pack. If you look at the top of the 18 volt DeWalt battery you will find that there are screws holding it together. If you don’t have a soldering iron, you can pick one up at any electronics store for about $20. I use an industry specific spot welder to rebuild batteries in my shop, but I am going to assume that most people will be using a soldering iron. The first thing you need to do is get the cells, nickel strips, and a size T-10 Torx bit for your screwdriver or screw gun. So the method that I describe in this post, will work for any type of NiCd (Nickel Cadmium) or NiMH (Nickel Metal-Hydride) battery pack. I have built virtually every type of cordless tool battery you can think of, and they are basically all the same. I own a battery repair shop in Escondido California called.
#Repair a 18 volt dewalt battery how to#
I decided to start a blog, and show people how to properly rebuild batteries, and answer any questions that people may have about the subject. I don’t suggest buying those books to anyone. They basically tell you how to zap your battery pack with 24 volts and it will make your battery like new again.
As most people have seen, you can buy a book for roughly $6 that will show you how to “Bring your dead battery pack back to life!” But unfortunately, for any of us that have actually tried the method that they show you, it doesn’t work.
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